Pol Pot’s Cruel Legacy

19

March 10, 2013 by Deborah Cicurel

Having visited Auschwitz, Treblinka and several other concentration camps in Poland, as well as Zebilitovska Goura, a mass grave of 10,000 children, I thought I was tough enough to visit Choeung Ek, the most famous of 300 Cambodian Killing Fields. I experienced the same feelings of shock at the cruelty of humans and the scale of meaningless deaths, years after my first trip to the site of a huge genocide.

This is where, in the 1970s, the Cambodian Communist tyrant Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge killed up to 3 million of his own people under an attempt at an agrarian utopia which revered peasants and despised capitalists. His incomprehensible policies involved murdering men, women and children who were educated, spoke more than one language, wore glasses and had non-calloused hands.

Like so many other dictators, he recruited uneducated, impressionable young men to carry out his idea of social justice – beating innocent ‘enemies’ with hammers and other cheap weapons as bullets were considered too expensive.

When I visited the concentration camps in Poland, it was the middle of December, the snow was heavy and the atmosphere was oppressive. The horrors of seventy years ago were tangible and my trembling was not only for the cold.

But Choeung Ek was not at all like this, despite the fact these atrocities were even more recent. It seemed almost peaceful, with trees, birds and flowers in sight, and sunshine streaming onto the land. This ostensible tranquility was undoubtedly in part due to the fact that the former buildings of the Killing Field had been destroyed immediately after, removing a certain reality for visitors forty years later.
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With a very informative audio guide, I wandered around the Killing Fields, stopping to look at the places where people were initially brought, to watch a short film on Pol Pot at the museum and to pay my respects at the mass graves of hundreds of children, where hundreds of visitors had left behind their woven bracelets as a sign of respect.
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One of the most awful parts of visiting Choeung Ek is that these atrocities were so recent, which means two things. Firstly, it was still possible to see bits of bone surfacing from the ground – every three months the new bones and cloth that have surfaced are collected by special caretakers. Secondly, I realised that every Cambodian I met on the street must have been directly affected by this genocide. I wondered how so many meaningless deaths on such a large scale could keep occuring decade after decade. Will we never learn and will this keep occurring throughout our lifetime?
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The centrepiece, if you can call it that, of Choeung Ek, is a tall stupa filled with many levels of human clothes, bones and 5,000 skulls, the skulls of just a tiny fraction of people who died there. It is hard to believe the hollowed out pieces of bone staring back at my widened eyes used to belong to very real people, battered to death mere metres away from where I was standing.
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Finally, it was time for me to leave Choeung Ek, to go back into the usual chaos of Phnom Penh, the drivers constantly asking if I need a Tuk-Tuk, the pollution that meant I had a mask over my face for most of the journey, the ladies on the street offering me corn on the cob for a dollar. But it was not easy to forget the sights I had just seen, nor do I think it will ever be.
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19 thoughts on “Pol Pot’s Cruel Legacy

  1. anna robaczewski says:

    “Polish” concentration camp?…I think not! They were all GERMAN concentration camps.
    Even to try and explain this gross error by claiming geography is wrong as Poland did not exist 1939-45. It was split up by the Germans & Soviets and each part incorporated into their countries and ruled & administered by their citizens. The only Polish thing about the camps is that millions of Polish citizens were murdered there.
    Correct language is…camps in German occupied Poland, and German concentration camps. One could also add the name of the political party that ruled, the Nazi party, it could be German Nazi concentration camp….
    I thank you in advance for correcting these unfortunate and offensive terms.

    • Sorry if I offended you at all by phrasing it in that way – I am of course aware they were run by the Germans at the time. The only reason I said it in this way is because they are concentration camps based in what we now know as Poland, but you are of course correct and I should have phrased it differently to make it 100% clear.

    • Elijah says:

      She meant it was in poland god all of you internet geeks trying to fight about something it was an accident.

  2. Yvonne Kowalczewski says:

    There were no “Polish” concentration camps, death camps, extermination camps, labor camps, ghettos, etc.! These were created and operated by Nazi Germany, and their victims included millions of Polish Christians. Please correct your error!

  3. Stefan says:

    Thanks for your understanding, to help you out please see
    the following proper references to the camps:
    – Museum/Memorial of the former GERMAN camp in PRESENT DAY Poland
    – Museum/Memorial of the former GERMAN NAZI camp in PRESENT DAY Poland
    – GERMAN camp in occupied Poland
    – GERMAN Nazi camp in occupied Poland
    – GERMAN camp in Nazi occupied Poland
    – Nazi camp in GERMAN occupied Poland
    – GERMAN Nazi camp in German occupied Poland

    Can you please replace the sentence. Considering that millions of Poles suffered purely because of their ethnic origin, they wish to have the ethnic origin of those who created them to be absolutely clear, so that it is absolutely clear that the phrase “in Poland” does not mean the camps were created by Poles.
    Thank you

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